Travel blog 2023
Birgit (association president) and Milena (board member) will spend two weeks at YCD in Malawi. Their time will be filled with project visits and future planning for both organizations. All impressions will be documented in this travel blog.
Tuesday, 08.08.2023 to Thursday, 10.08.2023
We were warmly welcomed at the Blantyre airport by Francis Folley, President of YCD. Afterwards, we spent the first night in Blantyre at a local lodge and did some shopping (cookies, colored pencils, and sugar) for the orphaned children.
The next day, we traveled to Nchalo. The road took us over a partly damaged route (due to the floods) down into the valley. Although the view is beautiful, it is alarming that the Malawian government has (so far) not yet managed to repair the only road into this large area, or at least start the work. Not much can be expected there, it seems... Even upon arrival in Nchalo, we encountered road sections that were nearly completely destroyed by Cyclone Freddy.
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Nchalo warmly welcomes us with many beaming faces joyfully calling out “Mzungu,” which means white person. In this area of Malawi, it’s quite uncommon to see white faces. After settling in with Francis, we headed off to visit the goat project. By now, there are already 130 goats! The farm has a special charm that filled both of us with happiness. We’re sure the pictures speak for themselves.
On Thursday morning, we had a longer meeting with the YCD team to discuss the ongoing projects. We also handed over the games we had brought for the creation of a toy library for the orphans, which YCD received with great joy. Afterwards, we simply walked through the streets of Nchalo, taking in the atmosphere and immersing ourselves in this African world that is so different from Switzerland. At the Nchalo market, we made some lovely acquaintances with the market vendors. At our request, we were able to visit the goat project once again before the end of the day. We have already fallen in love with the idyllic atmosphere there.
Friday, 11.08.2023
This morning, we helped YCD grind and pack maize flour for the orphans. This is done using an old but electrically operated mill. Although it’s winter in Malawi at the moment, temperatures still reach around 30°C, which meant we were working in a really hot room. In the background, the loud humming of the old mill filled the air, and we had to shout instructions to each other. It was a very impressive experience for us, and we have great respect for YCD for doing this work every two weeks.
Maize flour is an essential food source in Malawi to provide children with carbohydrates. Next week, the packed bags of maize flour will be distributed by YCD and us to the orphans and their foster families.
In the afternoon, we went to the prison with Francis and Alain (the head of the prison project). There, the two of them held the final session of the current life skills program. The topic was "suicide." It was incredibly heartwarming to see how actively and enthusiastically the inmates participated in the class. As we walked in, we could see the pain and despair in their eyes. The conditions they have to endure in this prison are inhumane and violate every notion of human rights.
But as soon as Francis and Alain began the lesson, the inmates’ entire expressions changed. They became engaged, joined in discussions, and repeatedly burst into heartfelt laughter. The numbers speak for themselves: hardly any inmate who completes the life skills program and receives the business starter package ever has to return to this terrible prison. This is rarely the case for other inmates.
We are so proud of this successful project, and seeing the class in action was a truly special experience. Next week, we’ll return to the prison to celebrate the graduation with the program’s participants.
On the drive home from the prison, we found out that there’s no more petrol available in our region. Francis told us that this happens quite often, and there have even been times when it took a whole month before petrol was available again! The consequences are that transportation comes to a halt within just a few days, and many people can no longer get to their workplaces. Goods that the population relies on for their retail businesses and market stalls also can’t be transported anymore.
On a personal note, we hope we’ll at least be able to make it back to the airport in Blantyre 😉
Saturday, 12.08.2023
Today’s agenda featured an extraordinary team event for YCD and Patimalawi—we all went on a safari together in Majete National Park! This special trip was personally funded by Birgit. We met in the morning at Francis’s place, where a nearly falling-apart minibus came to pick us up. Once we arrived at Majete National Park, we jumped straight into the safari vehicle and began tracking zebras, various types of antelopes, hippos, warthogs, and even elephants!
The safari was a huge success—only the giraffes remained hidden from view. Just another reason to return to Malawi someday 😉 Afterwards, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at the park’s restaurant and got to know each other even better.
On the way home, we learned that petrol would be available again at a gas station in Nchalo starting at 5:00 p.m. This gave us hope that we would be able to carry out our program in the coming days. Francis drove to the gas station as early as 4:00 p.m. to line up with dozens of other cars – no one knew how much petrol would be delivered or how long it would last. We were among the lucky ones who managed to get some petrol.
Sunday, 13.08.2023
The government evacuated many families who had lost their homes during storms Ana and Freddy to a camp near Nchalo, located on higher ground and thus protected from further flooding. The land was allocated to them, and they were provided with wooden planks and plastic sheeting to build a shelter. That was the full extent of the government's support. Around 1,000 people currently live in this camp, which is gradually turning into a village. Some have already managed to build proper houses, but most still lack the financial means and continue to live in makeshift wooden shacks — some for as long as two years now. Patimalawi is currently active in the village, using funds from a generous sponsor to help build 50 houses.
Today, we visited this village. We were welcomed by Abraham, whom Birgit already knew from her volunteering days and who also lives there. He works for another NGO focused on agricultural support. We greeted each other with great joy. Abraham took us on a tour of the village to inspect the house constructions that have already begun. As so often, we were soon surrounded by a crowd of children, which kept growing as we walked. They stared at us in amazement, made funny faces, and laughed. Walking through the crowd of kids, I noticed that some had swollen bellies. All children in the south are thin, but those with water bellies suffer from severe malnutrition. Moments like this spark renewed anger toward the government. Setting up a so-called “camp,” providing a few wooden planks and plastic sheets – and that's it. 😡
The 10 houses that have already been built are really nice – small but functional – and the owners are very happy about their soon-to-be new homes, even though they don’t yet have roofs. Still, they’re excited about moving in. The bricks were stacked using clay, which has now dried, but cement would still be needed to ensure structural stability. We will later ask Francis to calculate how much the additional cement would cost. Let’s see if something can be done.
A visit to our little goats rounded off the day, and we enjoyed the evening with Francis over a few bottles of “Carlsberg Green,” the local beer. Naturally, we also talked about the children with the swollen bellies. Francis explained the situation to us: this year, people were unable to cultivate their own crops due to the storm and the relocation. This means that many will continue to go hungry. The next private harvests are not expected until April next year. He estimates that one third of the children we saw today will not survive the next six months…
Monday, 14.08.2023
Finally, today we met our sponsored children. We were both very excited. The meeting took place around Francis’s house. Cooking started early in the kitchen, and the YCD staff set up the sound system. From 10 a.m., the first children arrived. Such a beautiful, touching moment! We already knew all their names from the matching process and project setup, and now these children suddenly stood right in front of us!
Everyone seemed happy to see each other, chatting and laughing together. You could tell they knew each other well. The foster mothers of the younger children were also there. We two “Azungus” were, of course, the sensation of the day. The toys put together by Till (badminton, soccer balls, bocce balls, etc.) were immediately put to use. The videos speak for themselves...
Some of the children received letters from their sponsors, which I personally handed to them while conducting a small video interview. They were a bit shy at first but afterward were very happy during conversations with others about the letters and the interview.
The children danced, ran around, and played while we watched, thinking that without our support, these children would have to live alone on the streets, dependent on alms from others who themselves have very little. The orphaned children who recently joined have already experienced this. This thought suddenly takes on a different, more existential dimension now that the young people are right in front of us. Once again, we are convinced that what we are doing here is the right thing. It’s only a small contribution compared to all the many other needs in the world, but what would these children say if I asked them what it means to them? Of course, we didn’t ask but sat down on the ground with our plates of rice, goat meat, and coleslaw, which they greatly enjoyed. We coaxed out their English, and some were brave enough to talk to us. We really enjoyed the moment.
At 3 p.m., our little celebration was coming to an end. We said goodbye to the children, whom we will see again on Saturday for the distribution of clothing. They carried their maize meal rations balanced on their small heads and set off home in groups, some of them facing walks of up to an hour. We both thought these poor children should be given a ride, but Francis convinced us that in Malawi it’s not considered a crime to let children walk with heavy loads. Once again, our Swiss mindset was put to the test. Francis said the children are fine this way and even enjoy the walk home. The lunch and the packet of biscuits given to them for the journey were like Christmas to them, and sharing these treats along the way was important.
We let it be, tidied up a bit more, and after the really exhausting day, had to lie down to calmly process everything…
Tuesday, 15.08.2023
In the afternoon, we drove to a nearby village. There, we met a group of young women who had been forcibly married and were rescued by YCD from their husbands and returned to their families of origin. Most of them already have children. Alan regularly meets with them for a discussion group. They talk about how each one is doing currently and how to plan for the future. It quickly became clear that planning for the future is hardly possible. The girls dropped out of school when they got married. They now live with their parents, who had agreed to the marriage at the time to ensure their care. Now there is one more mouth to feed with the baby!
It is truly heartbreaking to see the girls like this. The youngest is 14 years old and has her one-month-old baby with her. They all had the same request for us: to be allowed to return to school. With a school diploma, they would be able to find work or start a small business. There are no other options for them.
Resigned, we drove home because we currently have no funds available for this. We asked ourselves: what are we achieving with this project? The children are no longer being raped. That is the most important thing.
What do these children need? Support to find their own path. Without this support, the chance of being remarried forcibly is high. YCD does a lot of counseling work here to prevent this and to discuss possible options and coping strategies.
Wednesday, 16.08.2023
We both spent today on a trip to Blantyre by minibus. This is the only form of public transport available in the southern part of the country. These are really already falling apart minibuses, completely overcrowded, racing at breakneck speed over the damaged roads, honking at children and animals, and picking up and dropping off passengers anywhere. The round trip took 6 hours. Upon arrival in Blantyre, we did some shopping at a large supermarket.
Even in Blantyre, we were always treated kindly, received answers to our questions, and were able to find our way around well. The Blantyre Market was bustling with people and street vendors, and it took a while to find the right minibus for the onward journey to the supermarket. We noticed that we were not stared at by everyone as much as in Nchalo. Apparently, the sight of white people is not as rare there as in Nchalo. Indeed, since our arrival in Nchalo, we had not met a single person with white skin.
Birgit also noticed that there are fewer minibuses than in 2018/2019 when she volunteered here for three months. The reason seems to be inflation. The fare to Blantyre now costs five times as much.
Thursday, 17.08.2023
Today is the day of the graduation ceremony at Chikwawa Prison. The entire YCD team arrived early in the morning at Francis’ place, where the sound system and materials were loaded onto a rented lorry. At 9:15 am, we arrived at the prison. First, the OC (Officer in Charge = prison director) wanted to see us and greeted us in his office, where a large wooden, empty desk stood and a picture of the president hung on the wall. We took seats on equally massive chairs opposite him and had a brief conversation. He was clearly very pleased with our work in the prison and sincerely thanked us.
The moment you enter the prison yard is always shocking. We both agree that it is almost impossible to describe the situation adequately in words or to capture it in photos so that it can truly be understood. We still try, mostly through pictures.
A great program was rehearsed and performed by the inmates, and we were very pleased with these presentations, which represent a highlight in the lives of these people. The women from the women’s section also arrived. One woman participates in the Life Skills program.
Birgit also gave a longer speech. Then the certificates were handed over. For this, Birgit had to stand next to the OC, who handed her each certificate, which she then presented to the course participant with a handshake. Of course, a photo of this moment is important and very much appreciated by each individual.
At the end, we were allowed to personally hand each inmate a bar of soap and a packet of soy pieces. They had to return to their cells (communal cells) and sit on the floor in front of us with their legs pulled in. The cell is too small for all to lie down, so they have to sleep sitting up, leaning against each other (the “Shamba position”). Heat, dirt, and sweat, which have penetrated the walls over the years, pose a big olfactory challenge. The inmates spend 16 hours a day in their cells. In many eyes, we saw pure despair.
Our visit today certainly meant a lot to them. The course participants know that after their release, a chance awaits them with the Business Starter package. That gives hope and confidence. Apart from soap and soy pieces at the graduation ceremony, that is all we can offer. Milena finds it hard to accept this. At home, we talked for a long time about where it is most important to invest our money. With the starving children in the camp? With the young mothers who all want to go back to school? With the prisoners, who all participate in the Life Skills program and want a Business Starter package to give them strength to survive this hell? Or with the many schoolchildren not in our program, so numerous that Francis sometimes can hardly bear to turn them away in the office? Phases of anger alternated with resignation. Francis’s perspective always helps us in such situations. He says he always feels happy. Yes, he calls himself the happiest man in the world. Because he can do so much. Every day anew. Thanks to our support. We hear this from him again and again when we have doubts: “You are doing A LOT!” It’s not easy for us to see the situation this way, but it certainly helps us get out of our low mood.
Friday, 18.08.2023
Once again, we experienced an extraordinary day — truly a wow moment. A core activity in the project against child marriage is YCD’s presence in villages to spread the message and carry out awareness work. Francis arranges the visit in advance with the village chief. Only if the chief supports the project can it be carried out.
The entire village gathered in the center. Plastic chairs were set up for us, and we sat next to the village chief as guests of honor. Soon a group began to drum, and in our honor, the traditional dance Gule Wamkulu was performed. This dance is part of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. It is performed at the end of male initiation ceremonies, after harvests, or on special occasions. The costumes and dances tell a story — in our case, the story of a pregnant woman and the evil man who impregnated her. The drums, along with the clapping and singing audience, stirred emotions, and the atmosphere turned into a kind of group trance. We were both deeply impressed and silent.
In between, Alan and Francis from the YCD team gave speeches in Chichewa, conveying the message that child marriage is illegal and must not happen (in essence). The goal is to urge parents not to marry off their daughters — usually to much older men — but instead to send them to school.
A final Gule Wamkulu performance featuring a fearsome-looking animal brought the event to a close.
Impressed and grateful for this rare and valuable experience, we began our journey back home to Nchalo. On the way back, it became clear to us that poverty must be separated from culture. Too often, everything one sees is immediately judged as “bad.” Yet culture is something to be protected, and the deep connection people have to their land is not something outsiders should try to change. Old, lived traditions are, like in every country, part of the identity. We are truly aware of the beauty of the culture of this friendly, always smiling, upright, and hardworking people. It is precisely this gentle nature that makes them easy victims of corruption.
Saturday, 19.08.2023 – Final Blog Entry
Today, the orphaned children came by once more to pick up new clothing. These had already been pre-sorted and packed in plastic bags. Their feet were also measured or roughly sized, as shoes still need to be procured for the children.
The children’s joy is clearly visible, as can easily be seen in the photos… 😊
In the afternoon, there will be a small farewell party for Milena, who is leaving for Cape Town tomorrow. Birgit will stay another week in Nchalo to discuss administrative and strategic matters with Francis and to visit some business starters.
We thank you for your interest in our blog and the work we do here. At our summer festival the Sunday after next, we will of course share much more, reporting on impressions and conclusions we have drawn. The topic of sustainability in our projects will also be a key focus.
