Travel blog 2024
Trip by the Patimalawi members Andi and Jeannette to Malawi July/August 2024
Thu, 22 May – Fri, 26 May 2025 / Birgit
This time, our flight departed from Geneva, as the originally booked flight from Zurich was cancelled without replacement. This gave us the chance to take a little trip across Switzerland in a comfortable SBB train compartment and get into the spirit of our upcoming adventure.
Upon arrival in Blantyre, getting through the airport was not easy. The staff couldn’t find the key to the visa counter, so we had to wait for a while along with several other passengers. The baggage hall was also too small for the many suitcases being pushed out on the single belt. However, with patience, humor, and the help of kind airport staff, we managed to get our visas and collect all our luggage.
The reunion with Francis was very lovely, and we met his wife Fannis, who drove us to Nchalo. Even on my fourth visit to Malawi, I experienced that oppressive feeling triggered by witnessing absolute poverty, which is visible along the roadside.
Upon arriving in Nchalo, we met Francis’ sweet 2-year-old daughter Emanuela, who came running toward us. We were very happy to have arrived!
The visit to the market the next day (Saturday) brought us fully into Malawian reality. Since it kept raining, the streets and paths were muddy. There isn’t a single paved road in Nchalo except for the main road, the N1. Accordingly, the market stalls—mostly just a tarp on the ground—are quite unpleasant for the vendors to manage. It’s difficult to move around and stay reasonably clean.
We buy a few chitenge fabrics, which we take to the tailor to have skirts made. The rest of the day is spent with Francis and his family, during which we learn some important things. For example, we hear that the World Bank has apparently urged the Malawian president to devalue the Malawi Kwacha by 80% to encourage exports. We don’t even want to imagine what that means for the population. Prices are already so high that many people can barely support themselves and their children.
Petrol has also been unavailable for a week now. Fortunately, Francis had filled up his tank, and we’ll try to use the car as little as possible and get around by bike taxis instead—though this will greatly limit our range. Luckily, Matsukambiya isn’t too far away!
The second piece of good news is that Francis has been nominated by his party as a candidate for the upcoming parliamentary elections. All 411 delegates voted for him! The presidential and parliamentary elections will take place in September, and we’re keeping our fingers crossed that Francis will make it into parliament, where he could have real influence on government decisions.
Our joy was somewhat dampened on Sunday during our visit to the goats. Seventy goats have died, leaving only 90—fewer than we had at the start of the project. A real setback! The cause of the mysterious deaths remains unclear, though goats owned by others were also affected. However, it now seems to be over, as the population has stabilized. In any case, the next school term will again have to be fully funded by Patimalawi. Repairs to the goat shelter are also urgently needed. But many of the goats are already pregnant again, and we expect plenty of newborns in just a month’s time.
Monday was an office day. We welcomed the team, which currently hosts three local volunteers. Together with Francis and Allen, we reviewed the projects, discussing goal achievement, sustainability, and the future collaboration between the two organizations. New insights constantly emerge that prompt both us and YCD to rethink our approaches. Our shared goals unite us, but the path there is marked by differing attitudes, fears, and risk aversion on YCD’s part, alongside our own ideas meant to challenge but also support YCD. And last but not least, we are again confronted with the Malawian reality in relation to the plans we have made back in Switzerland. Our common objective is guiding YCD toward autonomy as an organization. We agreed to hold a retreat/workshop next week with all YCD staff.
Later in the afternoon, we took a trip to the Shire River, something I had long wished to do, to see the crocodiles there. We crossed the sugarcane plantation on motorcycle taxis, which felt almost intimidating to me—a real exploitation of nature. On the other side of the plantation, we came across small villages along the river and its tributaries, where people make their living from fishing. It was a very special experience and encounter with the people who greeted us and accompanied us.
Tue 27 May – Wed 28 May / Birgit
In the morning, Birgit met with a new group of young mothers. We gathered at the office and then walked over to St. Matthew Primary School, where we were allowed to use a classroom for our session.
Francis welcomed the girls with a few words and an energizer, during which everyone briefly sang and clapped together. The girls laughed and found it funny; the tension caused by the serious topic and the presence of a foreigner (“Azungu”) was eased.
The goal of the session was to get to know each other, so they could meet regularly and share the stories that had brought them into their situations. Some already dared to talk about their circumstances before marriage, during marriage, and after separation from their husbands. Poverty was the main driver for these girls entering marriage (sometimes voluntarily) in the hope of a better life and relief for their parents or siblings. Separations did not always come from them; often, the husbands sent them away. In any case, none of them have partners anymore. Most have returned to their families of origin, who often take them in reluctantly or tolerate them with a dismissive attitude. Two of the girls live completely alone in simple huts with their babies. They can currently afford at most one meal a day. They go from house to house offering to wash clothes or clean.
We offer these girls a business starter kit. We have recorded all their names and will work individually with each to see how she can build something sustainable to secure her own livelihood and that of her child.
After the session, we visited the Head Teacher of St. Matthews Primary School. The school buildings are in a sad state of repair. The Head Teacher asked for donations to build new toilets. For 2,000 boys, there are only two toilets. The second toilet building is dilapidated and has dangerous cracks. He receives no government funding to build new facilities. We deeply regret this but are unable to raise donation funds for this purpose. We were pleased to be allowed to visit two classrooms.
In the afternoon, we visited business starters who have launched their own businesses in Nchalo. All four have built successful enterprises and assured us that they can support themselves and their children well with the income.
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Ferister has had her hardware shop for two years. The store is well organized and located in a part of Nchalo where there is no other hardware shop. The confident, friendly young woman is single and has one child. She lives near her hardware shop.
At John’s hair salon, both women and men can get their hair cut. He learned the craft by watching an experienced hairdresser. He has owned the salon for 1.5 years and is able to support his family with the income. I didn’t get a haircut myself 😊
Charity has been running a restaurant in the center of Nchalo for 1.5 years and sells over 20 meals daily. She is single and has two children.
Georgina has owned her hair salon for two years. She has many customers and, together with her husband—who sells second-hand clothes at the market—they can support their family of three children well and send the children to school.
Thu, 29 May 2025 / Birgit
Three secondary school visits in Nchalo are on the agenda for Thursday morning. We begin with the private PEM Good News Secondary School and meet the likeable Head Teacher Rhonix Tsamba, who gives us a warm welcome. It quickly becomes clear that the school lacks many things. Rhonix tells us that he receives no subsidies from the government and that there is a particular shortage of textbooks and equipment for physics and chemistry lessons. He clearly cares for his students and even allows those who cannot pay the school fees to stay.
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We visit a class and introduce ourselves, explaining who we are, where we come from, and what we are doing here. The teenage students (grades 9–11) are very interested in our report. Some of the children we support attend this school.
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What stands out is the trustful relationship the students have with the Head Teacher. Communication is both serious and humorous, and the students are not afraid of him as an authority figure, unlike what we later experience in the two government schools.
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As we say goodbye and leave the room, the Head Teacher also bids us farewell, adding, “I am going to Switzerland,” which causes great laughter. We both agree that this school deserves support in the form of books and school materials.
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At the next school, Nchalo CDSS Government School, an entire class of students supported by our school project gathers. We sit in front of around 30 teenagers. This experience is quite impactful. The scale and impact of our support through this project suddenly become tangible to us.
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At the next school, Zatonse PVT Secondary School, we again meet open-minded, interested, and eager-to-learn young people. They all face an uncertain future with few or no career prospects and would love nothing more than to learn a profession and contribute to the development of Malawi. However, further education or university studies are not state-funded (except for a few scholarships for top-performing students), so many return to their villages and try to make ends meet. This saddens Birgit, and in the afternoon, we make space to reflect on this topic. We discuss the vast differences compared to the Swiss education system. Much of it seems absurd to us, considering the harsh conditions in which children and young people here grow up and have to learn without any professional support. A crazy world!
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In any case, we are here now and looking at what we can do. In the evening, we discuss with Francis what professional integration might look like for some of these young people.
On Thursday afternoon, Francis, Matthias, and Birgit take a bike taxi to the "Scheme," the land made available by the people of Matsukambiya for growing food. The idea is to cultivate it using permaculture principles. We are curious to see how far the project has progressed. Alan and Japhet accompany us. Both take turns being on site for a few hours each day to talk with the farmers about their concerns and offer support.
We’re looking at a huge piece of land—32 hectares in total, of which 15 hectares have already been planted. The entire area had to be cleared with machines last year. We meet many motivated and friendly people, busy tending to their plots. The main crop is maize, but peas are also planted between the maize rows. Scattered among them are banana plants reaching for the sky. So beautiful! The seed diversity enriches and sustains the soil. There are also larger fields of sweet potatoes, again mixed with peas.
Francis is frustrated, however. He had hoped that 100% of the area would be cultivated by the time we arrived. We, on the other hand, are already very impressed with the 50% and see it as a success after just one year! We learn that initially more residents of Matsukambiya wanted to cultivate plots, but then World Vision delivered a large supply of maize to the village, covering everyone's needs for the coming months. As a result, many didn't start planting.
We’re grateful to experience this firsthand—this is exactly what we often hear about projects in Africa. Being close to the people here helps us better understand the situation. We talk about it with Francis, who is clearly upset.
We have no doubt that the land will be fully cultivated very soon. It’s a great learning opportunity—for the people of Matsukambiya and for YCD. Generations of reliance on aid organizations have left people in a state of learned helplessness, severely weakening or destroying their confidence in their own ability to plan and act. Yet, we also see many motivated individuals who are taking initiative and striving to achieve something. Otherwise, those 50% wouldn’t already be cultivated! For Francis, it's initially difficult to focus on the resources rather than the deficits. But we’re all convinced that the fields will soon be fully used—by those motivated people striving for independence.
Once the World Vision maize meal runs out, the fields will most likely already be claimed by others. Matsukambiya is steadily growing, and there are plenty of people ready to seize the opportunity to cultivate a plot. We believe that this model-based learning approach is more effective than pushing and complaining. Learned helplessness can’t just be snapped away. People need time and experience.
A particularly impressive moment is our encounter with Awitiness, who beams with joy because she can grow maize—and it’s even irrigated automatically! She’s never experienced that before. When asked about her age, she says she was born before the first president, so she’s probably around 80. A remarkable woman, working the earth with strength and joy, happy to be able to feed her grandchildren.
Fri, 30 May – Sun, 4 June 2025 / Birgit
After an office day on Friday, during which we planned the retreat for the coming Monday with Francis, Saturday was dedicated to visiting the orphans. The first children arrived as early as 8:00 a.m. Over time, many children gathered on the terrace in front of Francis’s house. They played cards, the African marble game, or football (tschutten). Some of the children and youths were more reserved and stayed in the background. An older boy even hid them at the side of the house, where I discovered them. Once everyone was there, Blessings and two volunteers distributed the dried mangoes we had brought. Most children seemed comfortable, laughing and joking with each other.
About 1.5 hours later, the maize flour distribution took place, and we were asked to take a photo of all the children with the maize sacks. After the event, it was clear to us that we no longer want to take such photos. These are typical aid organization pictures that do not reflect our attitude or our shared goals with YCD. No child should have to thank anyone for sufficient food and clothing. We communicated this to Francis, who shares our view.
After the program, we had a conversation with two girls who are 17 and will turn 18 this year, meaning they will exit the orphans’ program, as well as with the boy who hid beside the house. He is also 17 and will leave the program in 2026.
The two girls know exactly what they want to do after finishing school and have business starter ideas. One of the girls will not have completed school by age 18 and is determined to finish it, which we promised to support. The boy wants to become a scientist. He is interested in physics and chemistry and would like to have a home laboratory for experiments. We asked about his grades and learned that he is top of his class—an introverted, clever boy with little interest in social interactions with peers. YCD will also stay in contact with him for follow-up support after the program.
In the afternoon, we drove to Matsukambiya. We were so excited! The last time we were there, two years ago, there were only a few makeshift houses and tarpaulin huts. No greenery, no trees, no shade.
We were warmly welcomed with singing and music. Village children and dancing women surrounded the car. So beautiful and moving. In front of the Recreation Center, we met the village leaders (Traditional Chiefs) and took plastic chairs beside them. The women performed their traditional dances with singing and drums, and even the female village chief of Matsukambiya got up and danced along. It was a wonderful sight, and many children’s eyes around the dance floor were all fixed on us.
After the official part with dancing and speeches by Francis and Birgit, we walked through Matsukambiya. We had to search for the 50 houses financed by us, which were built by the residents themselves (we provided the materials), among numerous houses built by another Christian NGO. Their houses look very nice, are larger, and—indeed—numerous. We already knew this but couldn’t imagine the scale. The UNICEF well stands near our Recreation Center.
Paths have formed in the village, along with many green spaces, trees, and shrubs—it has become really beautiful here! We were happy about this positive surprise, but many red question marks lit up in our minds: UNICEF builds the well, one NGO builds several hundred houses, we build 50 houses, the Recreation Center, and the “Scheme” for self-cultivation, and World Vision distributes a large batch of maize sacks just once. Is there really no coordination between the NGOs? Francis explained to us that coordination between NGOs only takes place at the highest level. We could hardly believe it. At least the village leaders must have a coordination plan or be consulted about it, right?
Imagine this: NGOs just come and distribute or install their products according to their own ideas, disregarding the people living there, who are expected to be grateful and happy for such generosity. Even the Traditional Chiefs seem to play no role in the decisions. Imagine if this were done to us at home!
This insight is valuable for us and crucial for the further planning of the Matsukambiya project. We started this project with the concept of including residents in the implementation of measures. The houses were built by the residents themselves, and the fields were planted by them. They were also involved in the planning. With the construction of larger houses by another organization without involving the population and the maize deliveries from World Vision, our plan no longer works as we had hoped. On the other hand, it is naturally a relief for the people to live in a nice village and have food.
We absolutely must follow up on this while we are in Malawi. Despite the warm welcome from the residents and the view of the village, the findings leave us somewhat troubled. The work of the NGOs seems overbearing to us. Like bulldozers, they bulldoze over the population and impose infrastructure that they admittedly would not have had otherwise. The population is neither asked nor involved. It’s like throwing a bone to a dog. This simply isn’t okay. It robs people of their dignity and leads to cementing learned helplessness. We are convinced that we are on the right path with our concept of inclusion, even if our houses are smaller and fewer. But they were built by the owners themselves, made of fired bricks with cement joints and solid thatched roofs—not of mud with tin roofs placed on top.
Our mandatory after-work beer was naturally dedicated to this topic, and we agreed with Francis to meet with the Chief of Chiefs (the superior of all Traditional Chiefs in the district) to discuss NGO coordination.
Last Week 1 / Matthias
“I know that I know nothing”
After spending 14 days in the country again with Francis, this statement becomes ever clearer to us. The more insight we gain, the more aware we become of how much we don't know about Malawi—its people, politics, history, culture, literature, and so on.
After his four-week visit to Switzerland last summer, Francis Folley probably knows just about as much about Switzerland as we now know about Malawi.
And that is what sets our initiative apart: All operational and strategic activities are carried out exclusively by Francis Folley and YCD. Patimalawi deliberately takes on a supporting role in the background. In doing so, we can fully rely on Francis and his team here. We’re consistently impressed by how he navigates the fine line between respectful, natural interaction with the people being supported and his straightforward yet diplomatic approach when dealing with those in power. For example, it’s very important to him that during our visit to the prison for the Life Skills Program graduation, the inmates are truly able to enjoy this rare break in their monotonous daily lives. He says: “Even if we’re sad or affected, everyone dances to the music and we will not stay on the sidelines.” By dancing with them, he sends a clear message to the prison administration and guards that the prisoners should be seen as human beings. On the other hand, we saw—during our meeting with the Chief of Chiefs, for example—how he presents his concerns in a highly diplomatic manner.
But what is a “Chief” or “Traditional Leader” anyway?
When the British Protectorate was transformed into a democracy in 1968, one element from the former tribal structure—adopted by the British during their colonization of Malawi in the 19th century—was retained at the lowest level of government: Every village has a “Chief.” This position is passed down through inheritance and always remains within the same family. It can be held by either women or men. In southern Nchalo, there are about 500 village Chiefs, overseen by a “Chief of Chiefs.” He is the superior of the village Chiefs and is invited by the district government to meetings concerning village affairs. However, he cannot request government funds or support beyond a symbolic presence—he has no budget of his own. Still, gaining the support of the Chiefs is crucial for our projects in the villages, as they hold great authority among the population. They are also responsible for mediating conflicts and allocating state land to individual farming families.
How can we securely hand over our Matsukambiya project to the residents? How can we ensure that the infrastructure of the Recreation Centre, for example, will be properly maintained?
To discuss such questions, Francis Folley offered to arrange a meeting with the Senior Chief Ngabu of Chikwawa, Noah Dalasi Chisafali. A great honor for the visitors from Switzerland.
Last Week 2 / Matthias
“Times are changing rapidly. We can no longer just be aid recipients. Donor countries are rightly reducing their support because they see that their actions have little effect. Now we must act ourselves and take responsibility.”
With this statement, Senior Chief Ngabu of Chikwawa, Noah Dalasi Chisafali, opened the conversation at the YCD office. He explained that this was also why he particularly appreciated the Matsukambiya project, especially the installation of an irrigation system.
He himself owns a cotton farm, has two wives (which certainly didn’t earn him any sympathy points from Birgit), speaks English, and has traveled to China and the USA. According to our research in the Nyasa Times, he was dismissed in 2020 by the then-president over allegations of corruption, but was reinstated by the next president, who believed the dismissal had been politically motivated. This reinstatement was upheld by the Supreme Court. Naturally, we are in no position to assess this history or to know whether his supportive remarks are genuine or merely empty words.
Regarding our efforts to ensure the sustainability of the Matsukambiya project, he assured us that the cultivation methods being implemented there could serve as a model for many other farmers. He expects that many other villages in his area of influence will be inspired by this approach.
We worked intensively with Francis and his team on the further development of YCD and its collaboration with Patimalawi. At the center of our discussions was the ambitious goal—defined together already a year ago—to make YCD a financially independent organization by 2028. How could this be achieved? The key will be whether YCD can find ways to independently cover salaries, ongoing costs, and necessary reserves. We spent half a day with the entire team brainstorming ways for team members to contribute to this strategic goal. We used the Effectuation approach, which is particularly suitable for environments where conditions (economy, floods, politics, etc.) are unpredictable (see, for example: https://effectuation.org/). The team at YCD responded to this approach with great enthusiasm.
With regard to the six-month internship Julia from ZHAW will undertake next year, Francis also arranged a meeting with the head of the Bachelor—and soon Master—program in Social Work at the University of Malawi in Zomba. We were very pleased with the strong interest in collaboration between the university, YCD as a grassroots organization, Patimalawi, and potentially ZHAW. We will definitely follow up on this!
Conclusion after two weeks full of encounters, discussions, moving experiences, and a completely different way of life: we are incredibly satisfied.
Pamodzi Tingathe: “Together we can do it”!
The foundation of the shared success between YCD and Patimalawi lies in this guiding principle: Our work is built on mutual trust, which could only grow into a strong foundation through open dialogue and meaningful exchange.
We thank Francis, Fannies, Allan, Blessings, Martin, Japhet, and all our other dear friends in Nchalo for their heartwarming hospitality!
