Planning and travel
On November 19, 2018, I set off for Malawi, equipped only with hand luggage and the determination to fully immerse myself in this African world for three months. I had harbored this wish since my youth and had already tasted a bit of Africa through travels to South Africa and Namibia, but I felt that something different awaited me deep inside the continent — another dimension. I couldn’t quite put it into words. I paused my work as head of a professional guardianship department in the Zurich Wine Country for this time, relieved to have everything well organized and a good deputy in place. A stressful time was behind me, and I longed to be alone, to have no obligations, simply to dive into another world, to watch and marvel, to let things come to me with curiosity.
I found the organization I wanted to work for on the platform Workaway.info. They had projects that interested me, and the contact with Francis Folley was very positive. I received detailed, friendly answers to all my questions immediately, which gave me confidence. After all, I was entering a region with many nasty diseases, and everyone around me warned me that I was putting myself in great danger. Well advised, fully vaccinated, and equipped with malaria prophylaxis, I hoped for the best regarding my health and started out optimistically. I then adhered to all safety measures for three months and indeed stayed healthy throughout the entire time.

Arrive
Arriving in Malawi was an experience unlike any other. You step into a different world. Already at Blantyre airport, you rub your eyes, feeling as if you had been transported 50 years back in time. On the journey to Nchalo, the first impressions along the road were unbelievable. The extent of poverty, reflected in the appearance and interactions of the people, the market stalls, and the surroundings, struck me with full force. It was very impressive, and I was eager to begin my upcoming tasks.


The districts of Chikwawa and Nsanje are located in the south of Malawi and border Mozambique. There is an altitude difference of 1000 meters between Blantyre and Chikwawa. Once you arrive at the lower level, you cross the Shire River as if passing through a wall of heat and remain in that temperature. The Chikwawa district is the hottest area in Malawi, and many Malawians refuse to go there because the heat is so relentless.
I was warmly welcomed by Francis and Cecilia and moved into my new home, which in Malawi corresponds to a middle-class standard in our country. I took a few days to adapt and get used to the heat. The latter never quite succeeded. Until the end, the heat repeatedly overwhelmed me and often left me feeling desperate. The government is unable to provide the population with sufficient electricity, so power outages last six hours during the day. These happen at different times during day and night. Generators are rare. In Nchalo, the supermarket had one, as did a few shops and a lodge that depended on electricity. During the power cuts, there was nothing to cool off with — no ceiling fan, no cold drinks, no fresh water. Only stifling heat, on some days up to 43 degrees Celsius. The body is constantly working to cool itself down to its natural temperature. I admired many of the locals who kept working despite the heat, sometimes standing in the blazing sun in the sugarcane fields, working with babies on their backs, or the boys on the bike taxis who were pedaling furiously.


Transport system
In Malawi, there is no state-run transportation system. Public transport is provided by private operators who run so-called minibuses. Most of these minibuses are in a technically poor condition, and there is no comfort at all. For economic reasons, the buses are crammed full of people and their goods, which can also include live animals. Prices are subject to the free market or—what I suspect—are controlled through price agreements. A conductor always rides along who collects the fares during the trip. There is no way to estimate the travel time. The bus stops everywhere to let people on and off. The trip from Nchalo to Blantyre took anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on how many people got off in Chikwawa and how long the wait was until the bus was full again. The bus would not depart half-empty. Complaining was pointless, even in the scorching heat under the blazing sun.
Riding in the minibus brought me very close to the Malawian people and massively reduced my previous comfort and personal space. Being squeezed together in such tight quarters, sometimes with children on laps, loaded with goods and animals, traveling through the African savannah, looking at the huts and villages along the road, observing, feeling, smelling, sharing, gaining insights and developing an understanding for these people—whose way of living is based on a culture thousands of years old, deeply connected to the earth, who accept hardships and show a total lack of resistance—remains incomprehensible to me to this day. Often, especially in the beginning, I struggled with this, but over time I learned to accept and partly embrace it.


Within Nchalo, people could get around using bike taxis. I loved this mode of transport. Legions of bike taxis rode up and down the streets, offering their services for a ride. Over time, I got to know the bike taxi drivers and always looked forward to greeting them warmly when we met again. Bike taxis are a main source of income for many Malawians. Owning such a bike is already an entrepreneurial success.
YCD - Youth Coalition for the Consolidation of Democracy
I got to know the organization, which consisted of eight local employees who had all worked voluntarily and unpaid for YCD until then. Additionally, at the beginning, there were three foreign volunteers present: a Belgian couple who stayed for one more week, and a Canadian student who stayed for another three weeks.
During the first week, a retreat was held where Francis presented the goals for the next six months and explained the planned approach. The retreat took place in a lodge garden, with each person receiving a bottle of mineral water and a pack of cookies, followed by a shared, very tasty and simple lunch.
What was especially interesting for me was to observe that the rooms in the lodge were occupied by staff from a well-known international NGO, who were simultaneously holding a meeting inside the air-conditioned building. I clearly remember that it was 42 degrees Celsius that day and I nearly collapsed.




Life at home
Francis Folley and Cecilia Chochoma are an extraordinary couple. Cecilia works as an anesthetist at the hospital in Nchalo and earns a modest salary (about 200 Swiss francs per month), which both of them need to live on and still manage to save a little. Francis earns nothing. He has never taken any of the donated funds for private purposes. They live in a house in Nchalo that belongs to the hospital grounds and is provided to the doctors of the Catholic hospital. I had my own room there, where I often withdrew to rest and recover. We had a housekeeper, Chembe, who cooked, cleaned, did repairs, and washed laundry. I experienced many wonderful hours in this house, had some deep discussions, and found comfort and understanding in difficult times. Chembe has become very dear to me.

I often admired him sitting in the sun at 42 degrees Celsius, cutting vegetables without ever complaining.
Francis worked around the clock. His workday began at 6 a.m. and ended with dinner around 7 p.m., after which we all went to bed. There were no nighttime activities. It is important to protect oneself from malaria mosquitoes, so one retreats early under the mosquito net, perhaps reads a bit, and sleeps early—only to be woken up around half past four by a tremendous bird concert.
I always experienced Francis as friendly and courteous. He never raised his voice, was never moody or impatient. I was always free to organize my work and time as I wished and was never pressured. During meal times, we had engaging discussions, and I found that I identified with Francis’s outlook on life in many ways. I was especially impressed by how he views the state: he sees the state as a servant of the people, not as an authority exerting power. Francis never judged or spoke ill of others, seeing everyone as an individual with their own nature and story. For him, the wellbeing of Malawi’s children is paramount, which includes a good education—a field that still needs development in Malawi.
His wife Cecilia is a strong woman who stands firmly beside her husband. She gives up a lot. Although, due to their education, they could live in a more expensive environment in Lilongwe or Blantyre, they deliberately chose to remain in Chikwawa and work with clear goals to develop this poorest region of Malawi. They own very little; their house is simply furnished but has everything needed for proper living.


Work
I was able to choose which of YCD’s projects I wanted to work on. Since the prison project was currently not supervised by anyone and I could work quite independently there, I decided to take it on. So, every Wednesday I visited the high-security prison in Blantyre, where I offered six hours of counseling, as well as the district prison in Chikwawa on Mondays and Fridays. The latter is also called “hell” because of the heat and terrible conditions. There, I conducted a life-skills program developed by Francis and already implemented several times.
The prisons in Malawi are far from respecting any human rights. Due to massive overcrowding, many prisoners sleep in a sitting position with their legs drawn up. This is called “Shamba.” Hundreds of men remain packed together in this way in the intense heat from 3:30 p.m. until 7 a.m. the next morning. It is almost unbearable—a form of real torture. Some lose their minds during the night. The attached drawing vividly illustrates this posture. A prisoner made it especially for me.

Once a day, there is one meal, which always consists of nsima (maize porridge) and red beans. The hygiene conditions are easy to describe. There is a bathroom and toilet area that is open to the yard, and a water point in the yard. Neither soap nor any other hygiene products are provided. Prisoners must also bring their own clothes. Only those who have to go to the outside area of the prison (for example, to perform work there) receive a white prison uniform, which must be taken off afterward.


The prisoners are almost all undernourished and malnourished, many have nothing but a pair of shorts, and many have no shoes. Some receive visits from family or friends who are allowed to bring food, but these are the minority. For most relatives, even traveling by minibus to the prisons is unaffordable. Some prisoners don’t even have the chance to inform their families that they are in prison. They were arrested and have simply disappeared from their families’ lives since then. About one third of all prisoners are still in pre-trial detention, meaning they have not yet been convicted. It can take up to eight years before judges even address the case files. Those who have money and can afford a lawyer are served quickly. It also often happens that multiple prisoners are held in pre-trial detention for the same offense.
The prisons are strictly hierarchical. Decisions are hard to make because each officer asked must first consult with their superior before deciding, and that superior must also consult higher up, so it often takes a long time for even small decisions to climb the chain all the way up to the prison director, the Officer in Charge (for example, deciding which office I could use for my counseling sessions in Chichiri). The officers wear brown uniforms and carry batons. Arbitrary behavior is observable and seems to have no consequences. For example, I once witnessed an officer beating a prisoner who was simply in his way and dumping food brought by visitors onto the floor. In general, prisoners must squat when they want or have to communicate with officers.
I want to emphasize that I also met some very humane, compassionate officers. They helped make life a little more bearable for the prisoners by sometimes turning a blind eye in certain situations and communicating with them on an equal level. However, I also observed that these humane acts always had to be done secretly, likely because there would have been negative consequences for the officer otherwise.
Both prisons had separate female sections, where a few women, sometimes with their children, lived in conditions just as bad as their male fellow prisoners. I visited these sections once to bring soap to the women. I would have liked to spend more time there and am now glad that YCD has started supporting the female section.

Chichiri Prison, Blantyre


The maximum-security prison in the city of Blantyre houses 2,000 inmates and is located in the Chichiri district, directly behind a large shopping center. At the beginning of my work, I went there during lunchtime to get something to eat. But soon I could no longer bear experiencing this contrast, so I started bringing food with me and stayed in the prison the entire day. In general, the transitions in and out of the prison were accompanied by a dull feeling of helplessness and sorrow.
When entering in the morning, I usually had to wait up to an hour until the "cascade ceremony" was finished and an office was assigned to me (which was almost always the same one). During this time, I sat in the entrance area on a plastic chair and observed the women and children who wanted to visit their husbands and waited on narrow wooden benches. Many of them had already traveled for hours, hungry and dehydrated, full of anticipation to see their husbands and sons. These, on the other side of the bars, were packed together and waved to their wives while the officers operated the gate to let one visitor after another in and escort them to the visiting room. I sat aside watching, hearing the metallic clanging of the repeatedly banging gate and the many voices, and could almost feel the despair and tension of these people. When leaving the prison late in the afternoon, some of the inmates I had counseled accompanied me to the exit, where behind me the gate slammed shut and they waved goodbye to me gratefully. In those moments, my heart literally tightened. Even now — two months later — as I write these lines, I have to fight back tears. At my last visit, I could hardly tear myself away and had the terrible feeling of abandoning these people.
My work consisted, as mentioned, of counseling sessions, which mostly took place in the hospital section. The NGO Doctors Without Borders had built a really great station in Chichiri with examination rooms in containers, one of which I was allowed to use. The line in front of my office quickly became so long that it was clear from the start I could not counsel everyone that day. An inmate named Alinafe, who had a university degree and spoke excellent English, was assigned to me as an interpreter. Soon we were a great, well-coordinated team that could focus on the central questions to achieve as much as possible. Most of those seeking advice wanted to tell for hours why they were even here, that they were innocent, that they had acted out of necessity, that they had been waiting two years for their trial, that they were very sick (indeed many were HIV-positive or had tuberculosis or stomach ulcers), how terribly hard the conditions were to endure and that they had to get out as soon as possible because their wives, children, and mothers at home would not survive without them. The need was extremely great and partly beyond my influence, so after the third week I slipped into a phase of helplessness myself. I was able to get telephone supervision from Switzerland by Lea Keller, who guided me to distinguish the possible from the impossible and to declare this clearly at the beginning of every conversation. From then on, it ran smoothly; we could now also guide the conversations well and efficiently and thus give more inmates the opportunity to talk to us.
One of the most important points was recognizing the difficult situation each person was in, the strength it took to endure everything, and to look for new ways with questions and offers inside the prison. This allowed us to motivate some inmates to attend the internal school, where Alinafe was a teacher, and to complete their official schooling. Others, who had been incarcerated longer, could exchange experiences with desperate newcomers and share their coping strategies. In particular, the Shamba sleeping position leads after hours of enduring it to psychotic episodes in which inmates stand up and scream, after which they get beaten by other inmates in a way that kills all resistance. Before someone in prison can “settle in” to survive this torture permanently, they go through various phases such as despair, resistance, lethargy, and often suicidal thoughts.
Yale, a 49-year-old man, came to me because he was about to be released after 28 years in prison and was afraid. He had been in prison as long as Nelson Mandela and was incarcerated when Mandela was released. I let him list his resources on how he managed to endure those 28 years, and afterwards it was clear that he would be strong enough to face the outside world. My further work consisted of locating his sister and making sure that he could first come to her. I left a small start-up capital and a inspired Yale.
For other inmates worried about their families, I financed visits by their wives or brothers in our setting to talk personally about possible help. The women usually had very good ideas on how to start a small business to support themselves and the children, but they lacked the start-up capital. I could provide this whenever the plans sounded realistic to me and Alinafe.
I visited some families of inmates with Moses Waya, an employee of YCD, in their home villages. We brought building materials, flour, clothes, medicine, once a goat, and told the entire village community, which had gathered, about the inmate who had sent me to them. In this way, the inmate left a good impression in his home village and was certainly welcomed back kindly after his prison stay.





Chikwawa Prison
The district prison of Chikwawa houses about 500 inmates, mostly young adults, and is located in the hottest area of the country. The midday heat almost took my breath and clarity away when I traveled there and led 24 young men in a Life-Skills Program for Behaviour Change inside a sweltering classroom. I was supported by other YCD staff as well as Cecilia Chochoma, who contributed significantly to health prevention efforts. Francis himself had developed the program, dividing it into 10 sessions:
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Introduction and establishing safety and trust
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Personal development goals
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Self-awareness
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Awareness of crime and prevention
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Skills to achieve independence
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Skills for social interaction
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Healthy lifestyle
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Family visits in the villages
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Resilience and coping strategies
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Evaluation of personal goals
The aim was that the “boys” would no longer commit crimes after their release. However, I soon noticed that behavior change wasn’t the real problem that led them to prison. Most were incarcerated due to ignorance, stealing out of sheer necessity, naïve trustfulness towards scammers promising big money, and other offenses which in Switzerland might only result in a fine. Here, as a young person, one could spend three years in prison for such acts.
My work involved assessing each participant’s status and life goals, visiting families in the villages to facilitate a welcoming return, delivering input from the Life-Skills Program—mostly through group discussions and feedback—and at the program’s end, reflecting on the insights the participants had gained and their concrete plans for after release. I then decided, using leftover crowdfunding money and my own contribution, to leave each prisoner 50 Swiss francs. This money is held by YCD and, once released, they can withdraw half and work with Francis Folley or Moses Waya to create a business plan. Upon successfully launching their business, YCD assesses their progress and releases the second half of the funds. Two prisoners have already been released—one started a maize flour business, the other opened a butcher shop.
The Life-Skills Program ends with a celebration where every participant receives a certificate and a T-shirt, and there is dancing and acting (wonderful... a small play warning about scammers and too much alcohol). I was so touched when they thanked me warmly with a handmade basket and drawings.


With a heavy heart, I flew home after three months—and with deep gratitude for being able to do so. Back to our safe world, to functioning structures, the luxury of a shower, hygiene, washing machines, streetlights, the existence of a land registry office and a child and adult protection authority (KESB), the Swiss Federal Railways (SBB), the legal system, especially procedural law and equality before the law. The freedom from fearing state arbitrariness, which I had always felt lurking in Malawi, and so much more.
The first three weeks at home were difficult for me. To this day, I have not found an answer to why I should deserve this life and these people not. Pure luck. I want to contribute at least a little to help this country develop further. With YCD as an organization and Francis Folley as its leader, I fully support the activities we want to offer through our association to provide financial support. I encourage everyone at any time to spend a few weeks there and work alongside them. It is easier than one might think.
